Saturday, November 6, 2010

Just because we don't have a bbq, doesn't mean we can't bbq!!

Jambo!

I know it has been quite some time since my last update but there has been a lot going on and we have been quite busy! Part of the reason it has been so long is that I tried to do a video blog in place of this update. Jace and I brought our camera with us to a bunch of places we frequently visit (Lake Naivasha, Karagita [a nearby village], Naivasha town) and did a bunch of filming so we could show you what we do on a daily basis. However, the internet connection here is a bit slower than back home in Canada and we had no idea how long it would take to upload the videos. It turns out that it takes a week for one single video! Either way, we have some good footage to show you when we return, and back to the written updates!

We have been working quite hard, having sampled Lake Naivasha every Monday and Tuesday for the past four weeks and we have also completed two mesocosm experiments and are currently running a third that will wrap up on Monday! For these experiments, we are testing nutrient treatments in water from three different lakes, all very close to Lake Naivasha. These lakes are:

Crater Lake:
Crater Lake, Naivasha Kenya
Oloidien Lake:
Oloidien Lake, Naivasha Kenya
…and of course, Lake Naivasha:
Lake Naivasha, Naivasha Kenya

After each experiment runs for one week, we collect the bottles from the lake, process the samples, and take some pictures of the water. Here are some photos I took after the first mesocosm experiment. You can tell the water from each lake has different chemistry and algae within just by looking at it:

Crater Lake
Crater Lake water
Oloidien Lake:
Oloidien Lake water
Lake Naivasha:
Lake Naivasha water
We have a funny story about the third experiment that is currently running. We like to check on the experiment daily to make sure no one has tampered with the bottles and that everything is still intact. Well last night around 5:30pm, just before dusk, Jace and I visited the experiment site. From the car, we can see that the experiment is okay and has not been tampered with. Since we had some time on our hands, we decided to get out of the car and walk down to the water’s edge. As we are looking at the experiment and talking about what great and successful scientists we hope to become, we hear a large splash of water and sort of a ‘flapping’ noise. We look to our left and not 20 metres away from the very place we stand, we see:
The dangerous hippo, or 'kiboko' in Kiswahili
My favourite saying in all of the Kiswahili language is 'Kiboko ni hatari sana' = the hippo is very dangerous. When you are in a hippo’s playground, all bets are off. We ran. We ran to the car, got inside, and the only thing I could think to do was roll up my window. We figure that the hippos have adopted the experiment as one of their own! Hippos are extremely territorial and aggressive so hopefully they will move on soon, preferably before we have to go out on the water to collect the experiment on Monday! In addition to the nutrient treatments, we got an idea for a fourth experiment when we noticed something happening to the lake. Here is a picture of the experiment site when we first arrived in Naivasha at the end of September:
Lake Naivasha, September 2010
…and here is what that same site looks like today:
Lake Naivasha, November 2010
Those are floating plants living on the surface of the lake and they move around the lake driven by wind in extremely large masses. The plant is known as water hyacinth and it actually doesn’t look so bad when they are flowering:
Flowering water hyacinth
However, water hyacinth is not native to Lake Naivasha and since it was introduced to the lake, it has become a nuisance plant. Since the hyacinth does such a good job at covering the surface of the lake, we are planning a fourth mesocosm experiment to see how the algae are affected when we restrict light availability. We have constructed a setup that will allow us to sink the bottles to just below the water surface and with the natural water hyacinth cover; the algae in the bottles will be starved of light! This should be interesting and we are excited to get it rolling. Here is the apparatus we have rigged together:
Apparatus for sinking our experimental bottles. Two large rocks will anchor the entire thing to the lake sediment while rope tied to the column of metal with holes will hold the bottles at a constant depth - we are quite proud of ourselves
Other than sampling and setting up experiments, Jace and I have been hanging around the house getting other work done. I took some interesting pictures of things around our house to show you how we are living and what we see on a daily basis. First off, what I did not know on my previous trip to Naivasha in 2007 and just learned recently about the large field behind our house, which houses many types of animals, is that it is a major site of illegal poaching. This is a major issue in Kenya because there is an illegal market for bush meat and poachers do quite well by selling this meat illegally. We have made friends with a few neighbors nearby and one is especially sensitive to the poaching issue and does daily rounds on his motorbike to look for animal traps and set snares. Just to show you how non-discrete this illegal hunting operation is, Jace and I went for a walk last week and came across an impala that had been killed by a neck snare and stripped of all edible meat. Kind of an eye-opener of how real this is:
Impala poached for bush meat
Walking through the same area some time earlier, we came across a wildebeest skull that now sits high and mighty on our front porch greeting any visitors that come. Word around the lake is that a new family of hyenas have moved into the area recently and are taking advantage of the abundance of animals. There have also been recent leopard sightings!
Young wildebeest skull
Other than Tim Horton’s, one thing Jace and I direly missed from home was a barbecue. Well, we set out to change that and have made one of our own! Here you can see that we made quite a nice barbecue out of stones, chicken fence, a hole in the ground, and some charcoal! Since we built this, we have been buying fresh beef and chicken from local markets – it’s fantastic!
Home made grill - also quite proud of ourselves
I finally took some pictures of the house for you to see where we are living! Some interesting facts about our neighborhood: we just found out from a long time resident of the area that pythons live in our yard and have ravaged our neighbor’s chicken coop and rabbit pen. We learned this only after romping through the thicket looking for firewood. Jace and I have also been hearing hippos barking and grunting in our backyard over the past few nights, sometimes even waking us up. These suspicions were confirmed when we found the MASSIVE pile of ‘gift’ the hippo left for us – message taken – no more running around the yard at night! Here are the pictures:
Our right-side drive whip!

Front of the house with my back to a private dirt road
Back of the house with my back to the lake and the 'animal field'
Our backyard facing the lake and 'animal field' with my back to the house
Inside the front door living room area and dining area. To the left is the couch and sitting area where all Maple Leafs games are observed and many Tuskers consumed in the process
Looking back at the front door
Kitchen and sample processing lab - notice the ample supply of chicken and ice cream
A great view of sunset every night, right in our own backyard
Our neighbors are quite nice, and we recently learned they are quite important people! Jace and I were invited to a social gathering right next door to a house that we learned belongs to the Danish embassy. People at this party included the top lawyer and top judge in Kenya as well as representative from the United Nations and European Union. Jace and I aptly showed up answering constant questions about how cold it is in Canada and telling people we have to be home by 2am in time to catch the Leaf game online (we haven’t missed one yet!).

On Tuesday, Jace and I are heading off on a little vacation to the east coast of Kenya, Mombasa! This place is a tropical paradise, sitting right on the equator at sea level. The forecast for the week we are there ranges in temperatures between 32-40°C. How is the weather back in London and Toronto?! We are staying in a backpacker’s hostel and we have read nothing but excellent reviews on the place. It is rated one of the top in Kenya and is supposed to be perfect for meeting people. We are very excited for this trip and we are also very excited for the new projects we will be working on when we return. These projects will involve dissecting fish and taking lake sediment samples! I am sure we will have many pictures and stories upon our return after the 13th of November and I will definitely post an update at that point.

It is very difficult for Jace and I to get pictures of ourselves because we are the only ones here right now but I promise to get some pictures while at the coast! Before I sign off, for our mothers (Donna and Gail) who want to physically see that we are alive and well – here are some pictures of us with dangerous African animals:
Jace and the wildebeest - or 'Wild Beast'
Ryan with some zebra and directly behind me, out of my peripherals, a male big horned water buck
We have already been here for more than one month and we have less than one month to go! Time is flying but we are definitely enjoying every second of it. Thanks for reading and for all the great comments! You will hear from us soon,

Ry

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Birthday Safari!!

Karibu,

Quite a bit has happened since my last update and I am very excited to fill you in! Last Sunday (October 3rd), I celebrated my 26th birthday here in Kenya! Thank you all very much for the kind emails, messages, and blog posts wishing me luck and a happy birthday. It’s great to hear from so many people back home I haven’t connected with in some time. I had a great day on my birthday; we decided to go on a safari to nearby Lake Nakuru. It’s a pretty famous lake because of the large number of flamingos resident to the area. The flamongos love the salty conditions of the lake and the type of algae that grows there, spirulina. Many people eat dried spirulina, take it as a pill supplement, or use it as fish food! Our friend who lives in Nakuru came to Canada on an internship earlier this year and has since returned to Kenya and started a safari business so we went through him for this journey.

The safari was amazing; we saw almost every animal there is to see in Africa other than leopards and elephants. Last time I visited Lake Nakuru, I was pretty bummed out I did not get to see a lion, but this time it was one of the first animals we came across sleeping in a bush. Definitely the largest lion I have ever seen with an enormous head. It was a great day and we travelled around the lake for about seven hours and I made great use of the new camera. My favourite sighting was the black mamba snake and if you have a good eye, you might be able to spot it in one of the pictures below. Here are some pictures of what we saw.

The team with Lake Nakuru flamingos in the background
Checking out Lake Nakuru from eagle eye
The team above Lake Nakuru
With Mike the safari driver and friend Godfrey

Lake Nakuru flamingos
Simba is all grown up
Giraffes roaming the range
Buffalo feats of strength...or mating ritual
Baboon baby watching us closely
Impala saving a snack for later
Just to the right of the lizzard sitting on the rock...in the grasses...black mamba!!
Rhinos always have the right of way
Zebra glam shot
Hyena scoping out dinner
It must seem like all fun and games so far from your end but other than my birthday safari, it has been pretty heavy and engaging work over the last week. As I mentioned, we are here to study Lake Naivasha as part of a greater research project involving the University of Western Ontario and Egerton University in Njoro Kenya. The lake itself experiences immediate pressures from surrounding flower farm industry (major market in Europe), agriculture, and a population explosion of ~48,000 in the ‘60s to over 250,000 today. Last year in February – March 2009, the lake experienced a major fish kill causing a large number of resident fish (tilapia, black bass, common carp, and Nile perch) to die and wash up on shore. Reasons for this fish kill are unknown but this has sparked interest in our research group. The lake is a major source of drinking water and food for the residents of the Naivasha region so needless to say, the lake serves great importance. There is a large range of literature online regarding Lake Naivasha and its history and I urge you to have a look.

On Monday and Tuesday of this week, Jace, Melissa and I set out to sample the lake with our boat driver from the Fisheries Department, Machai. We will be sampling the lake weekly to monitor water quality and the algae community present. I forgot how hot the sun is here in Kenya. Even if there is a strong breeze that cools you down, wherever the sun hits your bare skin becomes scorching hot! I currently have a healthy pink glow to me but once it browns out, I’ll be good to go. Machai is a fantastic person who loves the lake and very eager to help us out in any way he can. He is quite an experienced boat driver (over 20 years with the Fisheries Department) and showed off some of his skills by bringing us quite close to hippos in the lake. He also has a great relationship with fish eagles! Since Machai works with the Fisheries Department, he simply asks any fisherman on the lake for a fish, and they hand it over. He got us a fish and brought us over to a fish eagle nesting site and gave out a loud whistle to get their attention. He threw the fish in the water and the eagle left its perch, swooped down right in front of us, and grabbed the fish. They are enormous and it was great to see them fly so close – they larger than the Bald Eagle with similar colours. I have included some pictures of these sample trips below.

Melissa, Machai, and myself
Collecting some algae
Testing water clarity
A reminder how closely related are the lake, humans, and animals
On Wednesday after the routine sampling was complete, Melissa had to head back to Canada because she has other student obligations leaving Jace and I for the rest of our time here. In addition to the routine sampling, Jace and I are conducting several experiments in the lake! It’s called a ‘mesocosm experiment’ and we are essentially testing nutrient additions that might make the algal community change and if these additions can make the algae toxic. This may be another step to better understand what caused the massive fish kills last year and what may influence the health of Lake Naivasha. The experiment will run for one week and we will look at what’s happening next Wednesday! I have included some pictures below of the experiment Jace and I set up last night just before sundown.

Showing the lake water to a local while Jace samples
The local telling me a bit more about the lake...while Jace samples
Me double checking Jace's samples
Jace braving out the hippos to set up the experiment while I hid...err...take pictures from shore
Experiment set sail
Experiment lake view
Over the next couple days, I will take some pictures of the house we are living in and the awesome research vehicle we have (named Versteeg). The attic in the house is currently infested with bees! Rachel and Melissa had this problem when they arrived in September and had exterminators come in. Well, the bees are back so this is something Jace and I will have to take care of soon because they do like to come out of the attic every once in a while. In other great news, we just received hot water for the first time yesterday! We had been taking cold showers for the past week and now that it’s fixed, things are looking up.

Well tonight marks the kickoff of the Leaf’s 2010-11 season. Jace and I have found a way to watch some games! Since the internet is run off of portable modems here, we have a special fund that will go towards buying internet time for us to stream the games online! Only problem, game time is 2am! Grab a Tusker, Go Leafs Go.

Thanks a lot for checking out the blog and leaving comments! I will continue to update as often as I can with pictures and stories. Again, please send me an email with your mailing address so I can send you a post card!

Bumble Bee Tuna (thanks for the reminder Ed!)

Ry

Friday, October 1, 2010

Home in Kenya!

Jambo from Kenya!!

Sorry it took so long for my first post but we are now all settled in at home in Kenya and ready to go! It’s great to be back in Kenya for my second time and I already find myself very comfortable and in the full swing of things. This trip is much different than the last because the work I am doing here is now part of my PhD whereas my first trip in 2007 was part of an international internship. Three more things that are different are: the people I am working with, I have a new camera, we now have a project car! This time I am working with a new graduate student in my lab who worked with me all summer sampling lakes in the Algoma Highlands of Central Ontario – his name is Jace. We had a very productive and successful summer together and I am looking forward to the work we will be doing here – sampling lakes, looking at the algae community, and testing for toxic species such as cyanobacteria that may be harmful to the lake, animals, and humans.

We landed in Nairobi on Wednesday September 29th at night and were immediately greeted by Melissa, Rachel (and Rachel’s sister Patty), other graduate students in my lab, and our driver who took us to one of my favourite restaurants in the world – The Carnivore! This is an all you can eat meat frenzy where you are served all kinds of exotic meats such as ostrich, crocodile, ox, and many others. We were extremely tired from 18 hours of travel but nothing could stop us from a dinner at The Carnivore. After dinner and a few Tuskers (local beer), we headed to the hotel for a solid night of comatose sleep. The next day (Thursday) we did a bit of touring, shopping, and eating around Nairobi. Unfortunately Rachel and her sister had to leave us that night to head back to Canada and we continued our journey on to Naivasha where we now have rented a house for our project here in Kenya. The house is absolutely gorgeous and very close to our study lake – Lake Naivasha. I will post pictures of the house soon.

Today Jace and I caught up on much of our sleep – 13 hours worth! As soon as we woke up, we went for a long walk around the property down to the lake. On the walk we saw all kinds of animals (giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, impala, and water buck). The house is very near the place where I camped in Naivasha last time I was here so I was very familiar with the area and the animals we saw - I have posted some pictures below! It ended up being quite an eventful walk because on the way back, I had my back to the lake and was taking pictures of Jace and Melissa walking ahead of me. Jace yelled out and pointed behind me at a pair of wildebeest who decided to start charging at us and they were not too far away. Not knowing the protocol for a wildebeest attack, we starting running through the bush hoping to lose them. They eventually stopped running when we were out of sight behind the brush but they did stick around for a while scoping us out as we climbed the hill in the distance. We made it back to the house, looked back at some of the pictures and talked about what could have been headline news in a Naivasha paper if the wildebeest were even a little more determined. We went for a fantastic dinner, came back to the house, and planned out the next few days.

We are going to be very busy lake sampling and setting up experiments in nearby lakes. We have many collaborators and friends in the area and I look forward to working with everyone over the next two months. We brought all kinds of lab gear and I am very well equipped with new field clothes care of mine and Dusa’s parents! I will take many pictures with the new camera and post on this site as often as possible. We have a mailing address here so if you are interested, email me and I’ll let you know what it is. Also, if you would like anything from Kenya (post cards, etc.) email me your address and I will send you something! That’s where we stand and I will leave you with a few pictures and pieces of information I forgot about Kenya but was quickly reminded when I returned:
1)      Kenyans are the friendliest most welcoming people, full of culture and always happy
2)      Kenya is absolutely gorgeous and is the second best country on Earth – my favourite place to be outside of Canada and happy to call home for the next few months

Jace, Melissa, and friend

Stampede Jumper
Jace and the boys

Smiling for the camera

Baby and ma


Three giraffes and one Ryan
Grazing giraffe

Jace and giraffe
Me, Melissa, and zebra
Hide and seek giraffe
Just tall enough

Wildebeest who ran us out of town


Asante Sana, Squashed Banana

Ry